
![]() |
Welcome to the University of Connecticut
Cooperative Extension System's
Vegetable Pest Message
2009
This week's message will cover:
Early-season
cabbage-family pests
One grower reported unusually
heavy damage from cabbage maggots this year. This pest usually begins
laying eggs the first week of May. The eggs are laid on the soil
surface touching the stem. Hatching maggots follow the stem down into
the soil and remove the feeder roots as they go. Early Brassica
plantings need to be treated with Lorsban as a concentrated drench
directed at the base of the plants so that the material runs down the
stem and protects the root ball from maggot feeding. Broadcasting
Lorsban and then incorporating it into the top few inches of the soil
with a harrow may stop cutworms but will not stop cabbage maggots. The
maggot has several summer generations, but there is usually no need to
treat summer plantings because soil temperatures over 90 degrees F will
kill eggs and hatching maggots. Occasionally, extended rains will cause
soil temperatures to fall during late July when fall cabbage and other
Brassica are being transplanted. If low soil temperatures coincide with
egg laying, a late July or early August drench may be necessary. Scout
for the tiny white eggs (1/32 inch) around the plant stems to determine
if a late planting needs to be treated. Organic growers should plan to
cover Brassica plants during May with floating row covers.
A second grower reported yellow leaf margins on his cabbage. On closer inspection, he was able to determine that the yellow spots were wedge-shaped with the point of the wedge facing in towards the midrib. This is a distinguishing characteristic of black rot, the most common bacterial disease of the cabbage-family. It usually arrives in the seed and is one of the reasons why it is important to purchase hot-water treated seeds. When detected in the field, copper sprays may reduce damage. Do not spray copper for bacterial diseases with an airblast sprayer or mist blower or you are more likely to spread the disease across the rows than to slow it down.
Growers switching to deep zone-tillage
Ordering insect traps and pheromones
If you plan to monitor
for both European corn borer (ECB) and
corn earworms (CEW) in your sweet
corn this summer you will need at least 3 Scentry Heliothis traps, a
pack of 10 Hercon brand CEW lures and 5 of each type ECB lures (both E &
Z lures) . Store the lures in a zip-locked bag in your freezer until
they are needed. It is important that you get the Hercon brand lures
for your CEW lures because the thresholds that we use to tell you how
often you need to spray are based on the emission rate of this type of
lure. Other lures will catch moths, but they won't tell you what spray
schedule you should be on. Set up your CEW traps just before your first
sweet corn planting develops silk. Great Lakes IPM in Vestaburg,
Michigan, carries the Hercon brand CEW lure and other IPM supplies, and
has low prices. Some better-known companies do not carry Hercon brand
lures. You can reach Great Lakes IPM at 1-800-235-0285 or check their
web site at www.greatlakesipm.com
Before ordering your pheromone lures, you should check the tops of your old traps to make sure the mice didn=t chew holes in them while trying to get to dead insects inside over the winter. Replacement tops for your Scentry traps are only about $17.
Fall Armyworm (FAW) can be monitored with a $10 green Universal Moth Trap and 3 to 4 FAW lures. You will also need a Vapona (DDVP Vaportape) killing strip for your FAW trap. FAW traps tell you that the moths are in the area and when it is time to scout your corn for larvae. Any brand lure will do for monitoring ECB or FAW. Keep your unused lures in the freezer until they are needed (but not the killing strip). Replace the lures on your traps every three weeks. Again, that number for ordering supplies from Great Lakes IPM is 1-800-235-0285.
Row covers to prevent early insect
pests
Here is a list of some of
the insects that you may wish to exclude using floating row covers in
your mixed vegetables: flea beetles on salad mixes, eggplant or brassica
crops; Colorado potato beetles from your eggplant, tomatoes or potatoes;
leafminers from your spinach and beet greens; root maggots from your
radishes; and leafhoppers from your early snap bean plantings. Some
crops such as mesclun salad greens and radishes will need to stay
covered until harvest, but solanaceous crops can be uncovered by
mid-June. Beans can be uncovered after buds form and before flowers
open.
Summer cover crops
You can use summer cover crops to help build organic matter levels,
loosen hard soils and reduce root-knot nematodes. Think about using
summer cover crops either after an early short-season crop like peas or
lettuce, before a late planted cash crop, or for the whole season to
rest a field and improve fertility. Sorghum-sudangrass is best to help
build organic matter, loosen soil and control nematodes but buckwheat
can also help improve soil structure and is the better choice for
suppressing weeds as it establishes faster. These cover crops can be
planted from June through August. Use 30-50 pounds/A of sorghum-sudangrass
or 40-100 pounds of buckwheat seed per acre. Kill the buckwheat at bloom
or before seeds form to avoid volunteer plants. Mow both these cover
crops after about 40 days. For sorghum-sudangrass, let it re-grow and
flail mow again at 60-70 days before incorporating and planting a winter
cover crop.
Perimeter trap cropping for cucumber beetle control
The trap crop has to emerge at the same time as the main crop and has to stay healthy up until at least bloom. So, plant the trap crop on good ground, not in a compacted roadway or drainage ditch where it might not emerge or the seeds may get washed away or drown. Some folks plant the trap crop on the edge of the outer row of plastic mulch and remove it at bloom, so it doesn=t interfere with the main cash crop. To keep the system simple, use the same in and between row spacing as your main crop.
Spray the trap crop as soon as the first beetles appear and begin to feed. Don=t wait for the beetles to get on the main crop...spray early to create a poisoned fence. Monitor the field on a weekly basis and make 1-2 additional sprays if more live beetles are found on the perimeter plants. Growers that have used this system in the past have found that it is actually easier to use than multiple full field sprays, it gave them better cucumber beetle and bacterial wilt control, it dramatically reduced their pesticide use, and improved their crop yields. They all thought that the PTC system saved them money. PTC may also help prevent the spread of other diseases by cucumber beetles and prevent the build-up of aphids and other secondary pest problems caused by insecticide use.
Many of the growers wholesaled the Blue Hubbard for $7-8 per banana box (2/box) or simple retailed them from their stand. Most growers are surprised to find that they can sell Blue Hubbard squash. You could also offer them as part of a Halloween display: for instance, a pumpkin, blue hubbard, and bundle of corn stalks for $20. Give it a try, PTC is much easier to do than it sounds! If you prefer to try another Cucubita maxima variety as the trap crop, I would suggest butter cup squash. There is a good market for butter cup and it works almost as well as the Blue Hubbard.
Perimeter trap cropping can also be used to control pepper maggots in bell pepper plantings by surrounding the block with one or two rows of hot cherry peppers as a trap crop. In July when pepper maggot stings or shallow depressions are detected on the surface of the cherry pepper fruit, treat just the trap crop with an effective insecticide like Orthene or Dimethoate.
Colorado potato beetle
management
Adult Colorado potato beetles
(CPB) are out and on tomatoes, eggplant and potatoes on some farms. The
most important alternative control you can employ for this pest is crop
rotation. If you rotate your solanaceous crop to a field as little as
1/4 mile away you will delay colonization and reduce the number of
beetles by over 90%. If you only have one field, rotate your
susceptible crops from one side of the field to the other, and plant two
rows of potatoes between the new and old plantings as a trap crop. You
can treat the trap crop at planting with a nicotinoid insecticide like
Admire or Platinum, or wait until the beetles arrive and treat the
foliage with one of the products listed below. Another great
preventative practice is to strip-till through a killed, rye cover crop
residue. Potato beetle damage is dramatically reduced by organic
mulches because most beetles walk to the crop from overwintering sites,
and the mulch impedes their progress and increases the number that
perish to disease. Planting after 15 June is also suppose to reduce the
number of beetles because most emerging adults should have already
dispersed and found a host plant by then.
Spray potatoes if you find more than 0.5 beetles per plant, 4 small larvae per plant or 1.5 large larvae per plant. Mid-sized and late-season potatoes can tolerate 20% defoliation without affecting yield. Spray eggplants between seedling and fruiting stage if you find more than 1.5 adults, 2 small or 1 large larvae per small plant (<6"), or 4 small larvae or 2 big larvae for plants over 6" in height.
This pest will become resistant to any chemical in as little as 3 years, and there are already Admire and SpinTor-resistant populations in neighboring states. It is important to remember your resistance management training when spraying for this insect. You can use the same product 2-3 times in a row on one generation, but you need to rotate to a different chemical group with a different mode of action for the second generation in late July and for the next year. If you do a good job cleaning up the first generation, usually there is no second generation in July to worry about.
Here are some of the most effective insecticide groups and products for CPB:
Remember that the synthetic pyrethroids are very hard on beneficial insects, which help keep secondary pests in check. Use these and other broad-spectrum insecticides only as a last resort for CPB.
Phytophthora Prevention and
Management
If you grow
cucurbits, solanaceous crops or beans, one of your missions in life has to
be to prevent water from standing in your fields. Water management is the
key to Phytophthora control. By eliminating the standing water, you can
often prevent the disease cycle from starting in your crops, which is the
only way to stop this disease from causing extensive damage. The resting
spores of this disease only become active if they have 24 to 48 hours of
standing water and are in the presence of a susceptible host crop. Water
management is particularly important if you are using plasticulture where
the raised beds can cause water to pool like a dam every 5 feet across your
field.
Phytophthora management begins with sanitation, proper site selection and crop rotation. Do not compost rotten fruit and vegetables from your retail stand in your field. This is often how Phytophthora gets introduced from another farm. If you borrow equipment, clean the soil off the wheels, plows and coulters with a pressure cleaner before taking them into your fields to prevent introducing spores. If infested fields drain into irrigation ponds, do not use these same ponds to irrigate clean fields. Don=t plant susceptible crops like cucurbits, peppers, eggplant and tomatoes and beans back-to-back, rotate them with other plant families, especially sweet corn. Next choose a field with good water drainage for susceptible crops...not a low wet field where the water has nowhere to go. Sometimes it even pays to level the field with a front end loader or to fill low lying areas to prevent standing water. Before planting, chisel plow or V-rip the field to break up any existing plow-pan that may have formed to allow water to penetrate deep into the ground. Then, orient your beds so that the water will run down slope and out from between the rows. You may also have to remove the soil from between the raised beds at the ends of each row to allow the water to leave. Use a bed-maker that will create a domed-shaped bed so that it will shed water away from the plants. The beds should be at least 8 inches high to help get the plant roots up out of the wet zone. Inspect all irrigation lines for leaks the first time you turn them on to help prevent pooling water. Don=t plant in low Awet holes@ where you know the water will pool sometime during the season...that is where the disease cycle will begin. Break the beds in the low valleys to allow water to leave the field by flowing through the beds. Just leave the T-tape hanging in mid-air where you create the drainage ditch through the beds. After you transplant, chisel-plow or V-rip between the beds early in the season to help with water penetration after major rainfall events. If Phytophthora starts in one area of the field, remove the infected plants and a few healthy-looking plants around them in all directions to help prevent ariel spread of the disease. Also, remove any soil barriers or dams in low spots at the edge of cultivated fields so that water can leave the field and not back up into the planted area. This may seem like a lot of expensive work, but compared to ignoring the standing water and letting Phytophthora have its way with your crop, water management is cheap, and it works!
That's enough for this week. This message will be updated next on Friday afternoon June 11th.
Jude Boucher
Previous Vegetable Pest Messages - 2008
The information in this material is for educational purposes. The recommendations contained are based on the best available knowledge at the time of printing. Any reference to commercial products, trade or brand names is for information only, and no endorsement or approval is intended. The Cooperative Extension system does not guarantee or warrant the standard of any product referenced or imply approval of the product to the exclusion of others which also may be available.All agrochemicals/pesticides listed are registered for suggested uses in accordance with federal and Connecticut state laws and regulations as of the date of printing. If the information does not agree with current labeling, follow the label instructions. The label is the law.Warning! Agrochemicals/pesticides are dangerous. Read and follow all instructions and safety precautions on labels. Carefully handle and store agrochemicals/pesticides in originally labeled containers immediately in a safe manner and place. Contact the Connecticut Department of Environmental Protection for current regulations.The user of this information assumes all risks for personal injury or property damage.Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Kirklyn M. Kerr, Director, Cooperative Extension System, The University of Connecticut, Storrs. The Connecticut Cooperative Extension System offers its programs to persons regardless of race, color, national origin, sex, age or disability and is an equal opportunity employer.